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Fence Installation and Repair Services

Home  /  Wood Fence Installation and Repair Services

Wood Fence Installation and Repair Services

Licensed General Contractor  ·  Bonded & Insured  ·  CSLB #1033958

Where fences fail

At the dirt

The post, not the boards

Leaning fence

Posts only

Replaced without rebuilding the run

Rot & termites

Found & fixed

Posts replaced back to sound wood

Framing classification

C-5 licensed

Lic. #1033958 — family-owned since 2017

Wood fence installation & repair in San Diego County

A wood fence dies below the dirt

Not in the wind. Wind only reveals it. A fence goes over because the post rotted through at ground level — the one place on the whole fence that stays damp, has no air, and is where termites find wood already softened for them. Everything above it is usually still fine. That is why a leaning fence is almost never a fence problem: it is a post problem wearing a fence.

Which changes what you should be buying. Most people asking for a new fence actually need posts replaced and panels reset, at a fraction of the cost. So we look at the posts first, knock along the run, and tell you which it is. And when we do build new, the attention goes where the fence will fail: post depth, how the concrete is finished so water runs off instead of sitting, and grade sloped away from the wood.

GC Framing is a licensed California framing and rough carpentry contractor (CA Lic. #1033958, C-5) and holds the general building classification, family-owned in Chula Vista since 2017. Rot and termite damage is a constant part of our work — which is not a small thing on a fence, because a fence is wood, outdoors, in the ground, in a county where termites are a fact of life rather than a possibility.

Wood fence built by GC Framing in San Diego County

The one decision that matters

What holds your fence up

Boards, height and pattern are the fun part. The posts decide how long any of it lasts, and it is the choice almost nobody is offered.

Wood posts — our default

They look right, including from your side of the fence Cost less up front, so the budget goes into height, boards and pattern Set deep, in concrete finished to shed water rather than hold it Grade sloped away from the post so the soil is not a sponge against the wood Pressure-treated, redwood or cedar — the species chosen for where it goes

Done this way a wood post lasts a long time. Done the way most fences in this county were built — shallow, in a concrete cup that collects water — it does not.

Steel posts — if you ask

Post Master and similar steel posts cannot rot and cannot be eaten Hidden behind the boards once built, so the finished fence still reads as wood Removes the single most common point of failure entirely Costs more up front, and is worth it on a long run you do not want to revisit Particularly worth considering where sprinklers or a planter sit against the fence line

We do not push these, and wood is what we build most. But if you want the fence to outlast its posts, say so at the walkthrough and we will quote both side by side.

Styles we build

Privacy, or something to look at

Most of these come down to one question: how much do you want to see through it, and does it need to look finished from both sides?

Full privacy

6ft cap and trim, board on board — overlapping boards, no gaps as the wood moves, and a capped top that keeps water off the end grain. The most durable privacy fence we build 6ft cap and trim with lattice top — the same fence with light and air at the top; height without a solid wall 5ft cap and trim — where six feet feels heavy or is not allowed 5ft dog-ear good neighbor — boards alternating face to face so it looks the same from both yards. The diplomatic choice on a shared line Shadowbox / alternating board — privacy at a straight-on angle, air and light through it, finished on both sides

Open & decorative

Horizontal picket / slat — the modern one; horizontal runs with a deliberate gap. Needs straight, well-set posts more than any other style, because every board shows the error Traditional picket — front yards, cottages, and keeping a dog in without walling the street out 4ft cap and trim — boundary and definition rather than privacy; common in front setbacks Custom heights and patterns — stepped runs on a slope, mixed heights, or a pattern drawn to match the house

Gates: walk gates and double drive gates, framed and hung so they still swing true in a year. Gates are the part of a fence people touch every day, so they are the part built heaviest.

How a fence goes in

Five steps, and two of them are about water

A fence is simple carpentry done outdoors in soil. Which means the whole job is really about keeping wood and water apart.

1

Walk the line

Where the property line actually runs, the slope, the drainage, tree roots, sprinklers, and where a gate needs to be. We also check what your city and HOA allow for height on that particular line.

2

Style, wood & quote

Pattern, height, wood species, post choice, gates, and finish — in writing, itemized, so you can see what the upgrades cost rather than being handed one number.

3

Old fence out

Tear-out, old posts and concrete dug out rather than left in the ground, and everything hauled away. New holes get fresh, correctly placed ground — not the wet cavity the last post died in.

4

Posts set & cured

Dug to depth, plumbed, aligned along the run, and set in concrete finished to shed water away from the post. Then left to cure before anything hangs off them.

5

Rails, boards & gates

Rails, boards to the chosen pattern, cap and trim, then gates hung and adjusted. Stain or seal if you want it. Site raked, offcuts and old concrete gone.

In every fence we build

The details that decide the lifespan

✓Posts dug to depth, not to convenience ✓Concrete finished to shed water ✓Grade sloped away from the wood ✓Old posts and concrete dug out ✓Posts cured before boards go on ✓Capped tops over exposed end grain ✓Gates built heavy and hung true ✓Old fence and offcuts hauled away

Fence leaning, or a section down after wind? Send a photo of the run — we will tell you whether it is posts or the whole fence before we come out.

(619) 882-9309

Repair & maintenance

Most fences we look at don’t need replacing

They need three posts and a gate. We will say so even though the bigger job pays better — because the bigger job is the one you would find out about later.

Rotted posts replaced

The repair that fixes most leaning fences. We pull the failed post and its old concrete, set a new one, and reattach the existing runs — without tearing out the good fence on either side of it.

Boards, sections & finish

Individual boards that have cupped, split or gone soft, a whole section, or a run replaced to match. Then staining and sealing to even out new lumber against weathered, and slow down the next round.

Gates that sag or stick

A gate that drags, will not latch, or has dropped at the corner. Re-hung, re-squared, hardware replaced, and the post it hangs from checked — because a sagging gate usually means that post is moving.

New gates in an old fence

Adding a walk gate for yard access, or a double drive gate wide enough for a trailer or a mower. Framed and hung to match the existing fence, with the opening properly posted on both sides.

Termite damage

A post that crumbles under a screwdriver gets read correctly the first time. Damaged material replaced, and an honest opinion about the rest of the run and what is likely next.

Storm & wind damage

A section down or boards torn off. We put the run back up — and check why that section was the one that went, which is nearly always a post that had already failed before the wind arrived.

Wood & materials

Which wood, and why it matters here

Redwood and cedar are naturally resistant to decay and insects without any treatment — the reason they have been the Southern California fence woods for a century, and worth the money on the boards you look at. Pressure-treated pine is treated to resist rot and termites and is the value option, especially below the rail line. Douglas fir is strong and economical for rails and framing. Most fences we build mix them: the right wood in each position rather than one species everywhere. Named by species and grade in your written quote, along with the post choice, so you can compare two fence bids honestly.

Redwood Cedar Pressure-treated pine Douglas fir Post Master steel posts Cap & trim Board on board Good neighbor Horizontal slat Hot-dip & stainless hardware Stain & sealer Tear-out & haul-away

While we are in the yard

A fence job means a crew, tools and a truck already at your property, with the yard open. It is the cheapest time to deal with the other outdoor carpentry on your list — a deck with a soft post base, a storage shed, a patio cover, or siding that has been bothering you on the wall the fence runs past. One quote, one schedule, one mobilization.

Common questions

What people ask before they call

Why is my fence leaning?

A post has rotted through at ground level. The boards above it are usually still sound — the fence is leaning because what held it up has gone soft a few inches under the dirt. The fix is posts, not a new fence.

Do I need a whole new fence?

Usually not. Posts gone and boards sound means new posts and reset panels. Boards gone and posts solid means new boards. A full rebuild is honest when both have failed, or it has been patched in three different colours of lumber already.

Wood posts or steel?

Wood is our default and what we build most — it looks right and costs less, and set properly it lasts. Steel posts like Post Master cannot rot or be eaten and hide behind the boards. Ask and we will quote both so you can see the difference.

How tall can it be?

Generally six feet in a rear or side yard and lower in a front setback — but it varies by city, zoning and HOA, and corner lots have sight-line rules. We check what applies to your line at the walkthrough and design to it.

What will it cost?

Linear feet, height, style, wood, post choice, gates, slope, and whether an old fence has to come out all move the number. The walkthrough and written itemized quote are free, and the quote shows what each choice adds.

Should it be stained?

Redwood and cedar are fine left to weather to grey, if you like that. Stain or sealer slows the greying, evens new lumber against old, and buys the boards time. It is genuinely a preference — we will do either.

Where we work

The whole county, plus the mountain

Based in Chula Vista and building and repairing wood fences across San Diego County — South Bay, the city, East County, and North County coastal and inland — plus properties up in Big Bear, where freeze and snow load are hard on a fence in a way the coast never is. Coastal runs get a different hardware spec; salt air decides that.

South Bay

Chula Vista · Bonita · National City · Imperial Beach · San Ysidro · Otay Mesa

City of San Diego

San Diego · Clairemont · Mira Mesa · Miramar

East County

La Mesa · Lemon Grove · El Cajon · Santee · Alpine · Poway

North County

Del Mar · Rancho Santa Fe · Encinitas · Cardiff by the Sea · Carlsbad · Oceanside · Vista · San Marcos · Escondido

Get a free estimate

Tell us roughly how many feet

A full line, one side of the yard, three leaning posts, or a gate that has stopped closing. We walk the line, check the posts, tell you what your city allows for height, and put the work and the price in writing, itemized, at no cost.

Photos of the run help a lot here — especially of the posts at ground level. Mention you have them and we will ask.

(619) 882-9309 Fastest way to get a walkthrough booked
We check the posts first If it is three posts and not a fence, we will tell you that.
1We read it the same day 2We call to set a time 3You get it in writing

No cost, no obligation. We reply during business hours.